Swartberg Cycle Tour 2010
5 x 9
5 days x 9 special people
Participants
Sandra and Sean Delport
Chel and Dave Gassner
James Deutschmann
Andrew Hanger
Nic Louw
Coen de Bruin
Peter Samuel
Coen - King of the Mountain, every mountain, every day.
Andrew - hanging on with the heights on the ladder
James - cool dude with his multi colours
Nic - easy rider
Sandra - puncture queen (at least 8 punctures)
Sean - puncture repair king
Chel - super finance controller
Dave - having fun, all day, every day
Peter - Cruiser special wonder vehicle
Eight of us came to cycle, Peter came to check out the country side in his Land Cruiser. Peter says that riding a bicycle is punishment and he has a vehicle to get around in. Besides his dislike of bicycles he still agreed to ferry our bags from place to place and thus made our ride much easier as we didn’t have to carry all our needs for the five days with us. James, Andrew, Nic and Coen (famous four) are all accomplished cyclists (just had to look at their bicycles to realize this), The Delports and Gassners (A team) are tourers so the famous four always lead the rides while the A team brought up the rear. Here is Chel’s version of the ride.
Day 1 - 29th Aug
Karoo Lodge, Prince Albert to Die Hell, Gamkaskloof – 65km
The day started with a delicious breakfast cooked by George and served by Elsabe. Peter had his tarp out and all the bags were deposited ready for the trip. Cyclists left at 06.50 – Chel, Sandra, Dave and Sean taking the lead. We were blessed with fantastic weather, nice crisp Karoo air. It wasn’t long before Coen and Andrew went flying past us and then James and Nic rode along with us for a way until they realized that this was way too slow for them! The climb up the Swartberg pass was pretty torturous but fortunately it came at the start of the day. We reached the turnoff to The Hell at 09.50 and were ready for the “downhill” ride into the Hell. We rode some really lovely roller coaster bumps all the way to the 25km mark where Dave had left a few beers and a sprite in the river. We arrived at the river at 13.00 and after a relaxing stop for lunch in the shade we were sleepy and very lazy. Unfortunately the Elandspad to the top of Otto du Plessis Pass was waiting for us and it made the early morning climb up Swartberg fade into insignificance. We only reached the top at 14.30 but now we could see the descent into the Hell and the call of cold beer very loud from “Devils Kitchen”–! Dave and Sean plummeted down the 4km hill at breakneck speed. Sandra and I chose the more sedate (read nervous) route, walking and only getting on our bikes towards the bottom. We arrived at the gate at 15.30 and had another 8km to go to Devils Kitchen. Peter, and all the guys had already met up at Devil’s Kitchen and were relaxing having a few cold drinks and discussing supper. 2km further along the road was Sankey Marais’ house where the 9 of us were to sleep. Dinner was brought to us at 18.30 and although a “gesels” fire was lit, it wasn’t long before the lights were out and just a few gentle snores were heard.
Day 2 – 30th Aug
Gamkaskloof to Rouxpos 63km (PERMIT REQUIRED TO TRAVERSE PRIVATE LAND)
We wanted an early start today as the Ladder lay in wait for us, but the best we could manage (given the one toilet situation!) was 06.40. We started with an easy ride to the Ladder apart from the long causeway we had to ride over at the Gamka River– VERY cold water so early in the morning, and deep enough so that your legs were submerged and then the “Nek”. We arrived at the base of the Ladder at 08.40, Coen and Andrew, James and Nic had already started up and we could see them zig zagging up the side of the cliffs with their bicycles hoisted on their backs, making slow progress. The Ladder is a collection of switchback paths which negotiates a 1 kilometer krantz. It takes on average 60 minutes to complete the portage. Dave and Sean first carried their wives bikes to the top so that they could leave as soon as possible. They then went back down and carried their own bikes up. Sandra and I were very grateful not to have a bike to carry – we could barely manage the climb on our own. Coen was first at the top with Dave close behind, Andrew taking a bit of strain as he battles with heights (bad time to think about that!) James and Nic took a bit of strain but spent a lot of time taking pics and joking. Dave time to top (first time) 50mins, then 25 mins back down to collect his own bike. Sean in the meantime was losing his sense of humour (yes, it seems, it does happen – pic to prove it!) Chel and Sandra had a bite to eat and set off on the 11km rocky section toward the main road at 10.15, hoping to get there before Dave and Sean caught them. Almost made it, but were glad to have Dave on hand to lift the bikes over the farm gate just before the main road which we reached at 12.45 – yes, 2hours 30mins for 11km! The road is quite predictable from here - long steep ups, followed by short steep downs! Sean and Sandra decided to make use of one of the farm dams along the way for a swim, while the sergeant major (Dave) ensured that Chel kept pedaling. Chel and Dave arrived at Rouxpos just before 17.00 and Sean and Sandra shortly after them. Gerhard and Ronel were on hand to provide a lovely boerekos dinner and Peter told us of the route and his adventures during the day.
Day 3 – 31st Aug
Rouxpos to Ladismith via Buffelsport distance 54k (PERMIT REQUIRED TO TRAVERSE PRIVATE LAND)
Nice late start today 07.40 – I think we were expecting an easy day because it was short?!
A very fast easy 8km saw us to the entrance to the Klien Swartberg River where Boet Swanepoel was waiting to greet us. Boet lives on his farm in this wilderness area in a house that must be 200 years old and there have been very few modifications. Everything is as simple as possible. He and his wife look happy and content and he still does a full days work at 71 years old. He seemed very surprised that Peter was going to attempt the journey through to Poort alone, and told us that we were the first cyclist EVER to have gone through there – that should have warned me! We were astonished at the beauty of the river bed, after 5 more kilometers we reached the entrance to Buffelspoort proper. To say we were blown away by the size and beauty of the place would be an understatement but we had little time to stare, this was a real obstacle. The next 12km took us 5hours. I think we crossed the river about 14 times – sometimes it was shallow, but sometimes it was more than leg deep! We (the A team) pushed our bikes thru the river but we found out later that the “real” cyclists who were intent on preserving their bikes, carried them! We found leopard spoor in the poort and the labourers later told us that the previous week a calf had been taken. After that Sandra, who had been lagging behind a bit, made sure she was right behind Sean. The whole time we were pushing thru the rough terrain we spared a thought for Peter, we wondered what he would do if he got stuck. He was alone and there was no cell phone signal. Sandra and I both managed to take an unplanned dip without the effort of carrying the bikes, so who knows what would have happened if we had had to carry them? Peter caught up to us about 8km into the Poort and he was having a ball! No problems for him with the Toyota Land Cruiser. He decided to wait for us to move ahead, Sandra and I breathed a sigh of relief – we had been a bit concerned that we would spend the night without our luggage. Oh yes, we were also relieved that Peter was safe! By the time we got to the gate of the Poort, Sandra had had 4 punctures and it was then that Sean discovered some VERY long thorns still in the tyre. I think at this stage he put on one of Dave’s spare tyres and we were able to set off along the easy tar road with the wind from behind. Dave and I arrived at Mountain View B&B at 16.00 and Sean and Sandra at 17.00 – Sandra had got another puncture! We spent the night at the very hospitable Mountain View B&B where our hosts Reinhardt and Marianne saw to our needs. We even managed to get our laundry done!
Day 4 – 1st Sept
Ladismith to Groenfontein 75km
Our early morning start was delayed due to yet another puncture on Sandra’s bike, a new tube seemed to sort the problem out quickly. Sean was, by now very quick at changing punctures. There were two options today – one, a route on dirt roads that later joined up with the R62 to Calitzdorp and two, the R62 straight out of Ladismith to Calitzdorp. Sandra and I chose the second option and Sean decided to accompany us on the “nursery ride”. Dave was very pleased to be able to shoot off and ride like hell, flying along the dirt road and only being passed by Coen on the very steep hill into Calitzdorp. He sat and had a coke and then decided that rather that wait for us all day, he would cycle back to meet us. We were delayed as Sandra had had yet another puncture! Surely Sandra has to win “Puncture Queen of the Tour” .We arrived in Calitzdorp at 12.20 after having done 53km, and had a leisurely lunch and left at 13.00. The road to Groenfontien or The Retreat is typical of all the farm dirt roads, rolling hills (as described by Dave but Sandra and I had another way of referring to them) The 22km went pretty quickly and I decided to “race” the last 8km home in an attempt to get in before 15.00. Dave and I arrived at our overnight stop at 14.40. The Retreat is a really lovely place, restful, spacious and capable of handling most requirements. After a relaxing shower, a short walk to the rock pools, and a wander around the beautiful garden we sat down to swap stories over a glass or two of wine. We were treated to a delicious dinner and then all too soon it was bed time.
Day 5 – 2nd Sept
Groenfontien back to Prince Albert 72km
Our last day – lots of group photos and off we went at 07.20. This is a really hilly start and I was paying the price for my foolish sprint the previous day. Sandra and I were taking strain big time (it was cold and drizzling and the hills were relentless) so we tried DESPERATELY to flag Peter down as he passed us but he was having nothing of that and just smiled and waved and left us in his dust. Sean could not control his laughter at our disappointment, he at least found it amusing! At 11.00 we stopped for something to eat in the company of Nic and James who had just caught up to us. They were having an easy day today and were not in a hurry. We started on the tar road section towards the Swartberg Pass at 12.20 but the tar soon gave way to gravel and a relatively easy climb for the first 8km but the last 4km were truly murderous, the last 1.5km to the top being the worst. Every time you rounded a bend you were convinced it was the top, but a few steps further and the next incline appeared, dashing all your hopes. Dave and I reached to the top at 14.20, only Coen and Andrew were ahead – and they were so far ahead I think they had even managed to shower before lunch at Karoo Lodge. The next 16km is very steep downhill, the same pass that we had battled to climb on day 1, but for me the downhill was harder then the up. Nic thought there was a problem with my bike’s brakes, little did he know that the problem lay in the terrified mind! The last 5km back to town is fantastic tar road, and speeds of 45kph were reached by me – not scared of the flats or tar! Sean and Sandra had stopped off at the top of the pass at the Ou Kombuis for tea. Sean is not quite the Sergeant Major that Dave is! Dave and I arrived back at Karoo Lodge to a very warm welcome from Elsabe, a long, deep, hot bath and tons of tea. Dinner was another festive occasion and the 9 people that had started off the adventure barely knowing each other were now firm friends.
You might find it strange that very little has been mentioned of Coen, Andrew, Nic and James. There is a very good reason for that. The four of them are so fast that we really only saw them at the start of the day, or if they left later than us, we glimpsed them as they passed and then again at the overnight stop where they were already relaxed enjoying a beer. I hope that they enjoyed themselves and managed to take in some of the amazing scenery and that they didn’t just zoom by. I think that Coen especially is so strong on the bike that he can do it all without breaking a sweat! Well done to everyone, a great achievement and another satisfying experience through country that very few people have seen.
Please have a look at the PHOTO GALLERY.
And then Sandra has also submitted her report.
To Hell and back in 5 Days
Mountain biking from Prince Albert, 353.6 km in 5 days, over the Swartberg Mountain range, down into the bottom of “Die Hel”, up the ladder and through “Buffelspoort” to Ladismith and then on to Calitzdorp, from there back over the same Swartberg pass only from the other side and then all the way back down to Price Albert was quite a ride.
If you were not going up you were going down - and it is not just gentle koppies - it was Huge Mountains.
I have also learned some new skills, if you don’t let the brake go on the down hill; you need to walk further up on the uphill!
There is no time to fight with my other half because he always has the upper hand and I don’t know when I might need some help to pull me or push me or just wait patiently so I can get there on my own pace. I even needed him to fix my punctures. And he never complained even once. He was highly amused when Chel and I were both tired very early on Day 5 and the only person we know in a vehicle, the Dr, sped past us on the sand road when we decided we needed a lift and left us in his dust to carry on cycling for the rest of the DAY.
(Thank you to the Dr for carrying our overnight bags all week and for being there to welcome us each night with a smile. Your 4X4 skills are excellent and I must admit I was worried when you had to go through “Buffelspoort” on your own. I can also recommend a Toyota Land Cruiser to anyone who is interested, if you saw where it went it would be an excellent advert for Toyota)
For the rest of our cycling party, you guys are strong and it was great to cycle with you.
Next time we will let Sean and Dave cycle with you as they are also great cyclists and I think they missed challenging you 4.
We enjoyed a fabulous week but it is hard to explain because you cannot imagine what it is like to enjoy such remote places and look at the thing we continually chase. When you compare the life we lead and the simple life these people enjoy I can honestly say with the little they have far away from the hustle and bustle of city life, I think they are happier people.
Huge Mountains, clear cool river water and tiny unique flowers and rock formations was our surroundings while we peddled and pushed our bikes for approximately 70 km a day mostly on sand roads for 5 consecutive days. Every day was different but each night, good friends, some wine and great food and stories about the day were shared. Finally tired and with a satisfied feeling we retired for the night in luxury accommodation.
Our tour planner Dave and Chel planned this with good instructions and Maps and excellent overnight stops. They come highly recommended if you are looking for an amazing adventure.
With special thanks to Sean my loving husband for pulling me through when I was a bit tired and tearful and to Dave and Chel for an exciting Adventure.
Till the next Time
Sandra Delport
September 2010